THE-SMART-RAIL® SYSTEM

• THESE INSTRUCTIONS APPLY TO BOTH THE SMART-RAIL® AND FAST-RAILS^® INSTALLATIONS

• These instructions are for both the handy boat owner or the dealer / installer you may choose. If you decide to have THE SMART-RAIL^® system installed by a dealer / installer we ask that you please order through them.

CLEAN, PEEL, STICK & INJECT ADHESIVE

FOR 100% SATISFACTION, FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

THE-SMART-RAIL elements are: A = the BODY B = the WALL C = the TAIL D = the INSIDE CORNER E = the BONDING STRIPS

THE HULL AND RAIL SURFACE TEMPERATURE MUST BE AT LEAST 70 DEGREES (F). In cooler weather, an outdoor 100,000 BTU Heater can be directed onto the application area to raise the Hull’s temperature.

1.  SURFACE PREPARATION FOR FIBERGLASS BOATS

2.  INSTALLATION GUIDE LINE

FIRST: MARK A VERTICAL START LINE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BOW AT EQUAL DISTANCE FROM THE STEM AT THE BOW

M-1000: A displacement Hull or Planning Hull running at slow speeds does not provide for a predetermined rail location. The Perfect Solution is to STUDY the Effect of Waves Striking the Bow in all Sea, Speed & Heading conditions to determine the optimum location of the rail. The guide line is generally set above the Bow wave at cruising speed. Once the first side is done, measure distances from the water line up to the guide line, every foot. Then mark those positions on the other side. Reviewing the placement guide and then having already taken photos of your Boat in action and if you had installed black electrical tape to the Hull above the Bow wave at different speeds, you would know the best overall placement by now. IF YOU DID NOT : Now would be a fine time to have your assistant give you a good kick where it will do the most good. Sometimes a location 1/3 to ½ ways up the Hull will work in rough Seas running at displacement speeds.

M-2000 & M-3000: Using the RAIL TEMPLATE, PRESS its INSIDE CORNER firmly onto the chine, with the WALL and TAIL pressed up against the side and underside of the chine (see fig. 4/ Page 6). While holding this position, slide the TEMPLATE slowly along the application area, from Stern to Bow, drawing a pencil line on the hull, using the WALL top as a guide (practice sliding the TEMPLATE along the chine before marking). The resulting line must be exactly parallel to the chine, no bumps or dips. Have your assistant check on this if they are still around.

NOTE: See Fig.4 on Page 6. In some cases, the M-2000 may be installed slightly back from the stem, for a better fit on the disappearing chine.

Some hulls have a DISAPPEARING CHINE, (this is when the chine gradually tapers or becomes flat at the Bow); Have the ASSISTANT place a straight ruler in line with the line you just drew; and continue drawing the line towards the Bow. When both sides of the Boat are done, stand facing the Bow and make sure the two lines meet at the Bow. This can be helpful when installing the M-1000 just above the chine.

The radius of the chine edge may increase going aft. The chine angle may also vary from Bow to Stern. Make sure that the position of the rail is at the same general angle as fig. 4 / Page 6, and not excessively angled up or down. Explained in # 5. The flexibility of the TAIL, when HEATED, allows you to fit it to the changing angles. Practice with the TEMPLATE; and the handling of the rail with your assistant, making sure that both know before hand exactly what to do and when. Turning off the cell phone helps greatly.

From this point on, pick one side of the boat and perform steps 3 to 6, without interruption.
Make sure that no foreign material has corrupted the area.

3.  APPLICATION OF 3M-94 PRIMER

M-1000, M-2000 rail sets have four ampoules, one for each 9ft bonding strip area. Thumb-crush ampoule on DOT, shake a few times, pointing ampoule downwards. LIGHTLY apply primer to Hull below the guide line, along the 9ft. area where the upper 1/2” bonding strip is applied, shake ampoule frequently. With the next ampoule, repeat process for the lower bonding strip area. Note: Model-2000& M-3000: While applying primer under the chine, point the ampoule downward frequently to supply constant flow of primer to wick. Primer evaporates quickly, a light coat is sufficient. Double coat “disappearing chine” area if there is one. The wick is delicate so apply primer lightly.

4.  WITH CLEAN HANDS: Remove the protective guards (M-1000 & M-2000) from the Wall & Tail. Then remove the clear Release Liner from the Wall’s Bonding strip a few feet at a time. Leave Tail intact.

5.  RAIL APPLICATION – WALL SECTION: Use FIRM THUMB PRESSURE

Once applied the Rail sticks in place and can not be moved so make sure of your placement location. When installing the M-2000 & M-3000 you will be installing the rail below the guide line by 1/8 to ½’’ approximately. This is so that when the tail is applied to the underside of the Chine it is parallel to the underside of the Chine. Test this BEFORE you stick the Rail. You will see that if you apply the rail too close or too far from the guide line the adhesive gap at the end of the Tail will open and close. If open too wide you may not have enough adhesive. Closed, it will be difficult to inject the adhesive. The ideal gap is parallel or slightly closed. Your assistant helps hold the rail in alignment. Practice with your assistant before removing the release liner. This is IMPORTANT.

Using the single round edge wheel of the INSTALLATION TOOL, from the Bow end, apply roller pressure, first along the IMAGINARY TRACK-1, then 2, and 3. NOTE: apply approximately 30 lbs. pressure, advancing a few inches at a time (Determine the pressure on a bathroom scale).

Marking the Rail every foot with a pencil, top and bottom, will help in monitoring progress of the installation TOOL procedure. Check off each section after roller pressure is completed for Imaginary Tracks-1, 2, 3.

This procedure prevents air being trapped between Hull and bonding strip.

6.  RAIL APPLICATION - TAIL SECTION

Start the TAIL application at the Aft (back) end. Bending the Body upwards allows you to remove the RELEASE LINER, 12” at a time, so that the TAIL does not prematurely bond to the hull. The ASSISTANT checks for a straight body alignment while the INSTALLER APPLIES FIRM THUMB PRESSURE upwards & HOLDING A FEW SECONDS IN EACH POSITION. A pin can be helpful to release liner.

As you approach the Bow, if you reach a DISAPPEARING CHINE, the ASSISTANT may heat the TAIL with a HAIR DRYER to increase flexibility. FIRMLY PRESS THE BODY INTO THE HULL while pulling back the TAIL so that the TAIL is bonded to the then vertical part of the hull. Practice this procedure before removal of the release liner. This can be a bit difficult and should be avoided unless you have experience.

THE TAIL BOND IS UNDER THE GREATEST STRESS; PERFECT BONDING OF EVERY INCH IS ESSENTIAL. If the Rail is Not Applied Properly at the Bow it will start to PEEL AWAY.

The ASSISTANT, using both hands on the INSTALLATION TOOL, applies about 30lbs. pressure along the Imaginary Track-, 2, & 3 from bow to stern. Additional pressure on the TAIL along the DISAPPEARING CHINE is recommended, along with heat from the HAIR DRYER, because the TAIL tries to return to its original angle (M-2000 model only). Starting back from the Bow a few inches can help. Return to Step 3 for the other side. Once BOTH are completed to this point, go to Step 7.

7.  STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE SET-UP

REMEMBER: the mixed adhesive hardens in approximately 15 minutes. It’s best to have all the rails installed before you start injecting the adhesive.

First decide between the straight and the curved needle tip; depending upon the angles of the application. Do not remove cap on adhesive yet! (Even if you are curious!). The adhesive will mix, damaging that cartridge.

8.  ASSEMBLY OF ADHESIVE APPLICATION TOOLS.

When you have Bonded BOTH port and starboard rails, and if you are ready to apply the structural adhesive; set up the dispensing system as follows: Insert the cartridge nose-first through the oval opening of the clear sleeve until its flange fits tightly against the end of the sleeve. Now put the whole assembly into the caulking gun (fig. 1 / Page 6); secure the sleeve to the caulking gun with tape. Place the blue plunger into the back end of the cartridge (fig.1/ Page 6). MAKE SURE THE PLUNGER IS ALIGNED PROPERLY WITH CARTRIDGE. Select the desired needle tip, bent or straight (one or the other is easier to use depending on the position you assume in handling the caulking gun). Remove the cap from the adhesive cartridge with a ¼ turn. Make sure the exposed resin and activator have not hardened; clean out the channels if necessary with a small nail. Do not mix the two elements on the nail. Install the static mixer on the cartridge with a firm ¼ turn. If using the bent needle tip, align it in the caulking gun so that the bend points upwards and away from the direction of travel, i.e. starting from the Stern end and working towards the Bow, the bent needle tip points toward the Stern and vice versa. Firmly force the needle tip on to the mixing nozzle. Try not to twist the assembly. The Tip will loosen.

Squeeze out a small bead of adhesive until it changes from light yellow to white. This indicates a correct mixture. The adhesive system is now ready for use. Inject the adhesive slowly, don’t over squeeze the gun.

9.  ADHESIVE APPLICATION

STRESS IS GREATEST ON THE TAIL SO THE FOLLOWING IS CRITICAL!

The adhesive is applied in several passes. One hand operates the gun and the other steadies needle tip. Starting at the end of one rail, insert the needle tip under the TAIL edge so that it just touches the edge of the BONDING STRIP (see page 6, fig.2); INJECT THE ADHESIVE DEEPLY INTO THE GAP, filling it with a 3/8” Bead “like spot welding”, then pull the needle out STRAIGHT, advance about 1 ½” and inject another 3/8” adhesive Bead and so on until you reach the rail’s end. “Spot welding” will allow for the adhesive to “gas out properly”. The Assistant now pushes the Beads into the gap with a gloved finger.
Don’t wipe this adhesive off, just push it in. If you are Latex sensitive use the proper gloves.

After the beads have hardened, inject the adhesive into the remaining gaps. Now apply a bead of adhesive that will overlap the Tail and the Hull. Building up this thickness will provide for a very strong Bond. You will never see this adhesive Bead when the Boat is in the water. The Sea is a mighty force. Strong Bonds are needed.

With the remaining adhesive, apply a small amount along the top of the WALL, fill the gaps at rail ends and apply any remaining adhesive along the TAIL edge particularly at the waterline, and along the DISAPPEARING CHINE, if any. Use all the adhesive supplied. After the adhesive has cured, any high points can be sanded. Again use all of the adhesive overlapping the Hull to Tail Bond. You will be amazed at the results!

Allow the adhesion process to run its course. The structural adhesive cures within 1 hour. 80% adhesion of Bonding Strips in about 2 hours, 100% in 36 hours at 70 F. After the structural adhesive has cured, you may heat the WALL and TAIL with the Hair Dryer to accelerate the Bonding Process.

For the M-1000 only, insert the needle tip deeply into the gap, and inject adhesive, moving about ¼” at a time, completely filling the gap. Lightly smooth out the adhesive before it hardens. Make up new assembly as required, and continue the second coat after the first has hardened. Remember to fill the ends and top wall and overlapping the Tail Bond.

10.  CONNECTING RAILS.

The rail ends can meet at a perfect 90 degrees. Use table or chop saw, rough up ends with 120 grit paper. Spacing the rails 1/16 to 1/8 apart, apply a strip of clear packing tape over the top of joint, then deeply inject the adhesive from the bottom, using the needle tip until the joint is filled. Remove excess adhesive from the bottom. Apply additional adhesive over this gap after the first has cured.

11.  PAINTING THE RAILS

Before applying paint or trim tape, wipe the surface down with Acetone. Vinyl spray paint, (available at automotive stores) because of its flexibility can be used. If the bottom paint is black you can prime white rails with flat vinyl Black spray paint first. Consult with a paint professional when necessary.

12.  The Rail ends must be cut or tapered at least 45 degrees to reduce adhesive failures

After the adhesive has hardened, taper the ends with a disk sander/medium grit paper. Rub with an Acetone soaked rag, to smooth out the area. It is advisable to round off all sharp edges.

NOTE: STORAGE OF RAILS AND ADHESIVE KIT BEFORE INSTALLATION.
Store rails in a cool, dry area. To extend the shelf life of the adhesive, cartridges should be properly packaged and kept under refrigeration (do not freeze). Before using, allow rails and adhesive to reach the required minimum 70 F application temperature.

With the Rails installed, the Boat may turn much more sharply, especially at speed, possibly creating an unexpected centrifugal force which could put passengers at risk. Try smooth turns first to familiarize yourself with performance changes. Test the Boat under all sea and speed conditions before active use. Also, follow the safety recommendations of manufacturers of all products used during installation. Keep all adhesives away from open flame, sparks, and children. Congratulations on the installation. Keep us posted.

SMART MARINE PRODUCTS CORP. (SMPC)  makes no warranties, expressed or implied, including but not limited to, any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. The exclusive remedy, if any, to the original buyer/user of THE-SMART-RAIL shall be the refund of the purchase price (no more than the suggested retail price) of, or to repair or replace the product at SMPC’s option provided the product is returned shipment prepaid after SMPC has been notified in writing and has agreed to accept such responsibility.

Please contact us about sending in testimonials and photos to be posted on the web. You will not be disappointed. Thank you for using our products. Proudly made in the UNITED STATES of AMERICA.

We are always interested in promoting these products. If you are interested, please document the results and contact us.

Warning

Paying close attention to the details in these instructions will avoid disappointing results. “DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME”

1. Rail and Hull temperature must be 70 degrees (F) or above.
2. Application area must be paint-free, de-waxed, and wet sanded to a smooth surface and then completely dry.
3. Adhesive must be injected deeply into the gap at the edge of the TAIL. This is very important for high performance bonding (the product has been in continuous commercial service for 14 years and has been tested at speeds of 60 mph, using this adhesive technology).
4. NOTE: If the adhesive gap closes down along a disappearing chine, it may be difficult to insert the needle tip. The assistant heats the tail edge with a hair dryer until it is hot to the touch;
5. then the installer is able to continue sliding the needle tip deeply into the gap while at the same time injecting the adhesive.
6. Once the first coat of adhesive has cured, apply a second coat along the entire edge of the gap, slightly overlapping the tail edge. Use ALL the adhesive supplied

Again, take your time

“DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME”